Ice screws are the primary protection in ice climbing, acting as running belays and anchors on steep waterfall/alpine ice. They provide secure attachment points for the rope to arrest falls (rated ~7-10kN in good ice) and create bomber belay anchors—often two equalized screws.Unlike rock gear, ice is the only "rock" available; without reliable screws, leading exposed steep sections becomes extremely committing or impossible. Proper placement (positive angle ~10-30°, in solid ice without bubbles)
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